However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems. On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles. Proving that an oversized filter is not always a good thing when it comes to filtration. The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal jailer construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size.
Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.
Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (suzuki oil filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the oil filter cutter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this. While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire stifler assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom).
In the course of testing, we tried a Purolator PureOne oversized oil filters tests; it leaked pretty bad. Upon inspection, the gasket was found to be MUCH too large, large enough that the oversized M1-105 filter (and M1-104, OEM size) gasket actually fit inside it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible.
But when I finally got smart and pulled out the dremel tool with the cutting wheel, that did the trick. Forget using a hack-saw if you decide to do something like this. What I did was cut the case just above the seam that is located by the base-plate (I'm calling the base-plate the end that screws onto the engine - it's the heaviest plate of the automobile oil filters).
Unfortunately I cannot test the paper elements themselves to determine their actual filtering measurements and this is a very important key-measure. Also, I am not an oil filter expert, I've just been maintaining my own cars probably like most of you and have been doing it since I started driving at 14, today I'm 50.
I've owned a lot of cars, probably 20 or so including pick-ups. I've found Toyotas to be most excellent automobiles, really durable and well made (but you know that already) and I've owned 4 of them with 3 of those being Corollas. I think Corolla is the highest value vehicle made today, just my opinion, its a great around town car that has the capability of making fairly pleasant interstate trips and it doesn't beat you up to bad in the process. I've bought bouncer for this report that I thought were good quality and that an average guy might use. Over the years, I've bought about every oil filter brand out there. I've never really known what was inside oil filters either, or much about how they worked. I know a whole lot more today than I did, so its been worth the effort. I can see there is a lot of science, both design, material and production, in oil filters. Certainly more than I ever thought there was.
Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.
Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (suzuki oil filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the oil filter cutter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this. While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire stifler assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom).
In the course of testing, we tried a Purolator PureOne oversized oil filters tests; it leaked pretty bad. Upon inspection, the gasket was found to be MUCH too large, large enough that the oversized M1-105 filter (and M1-104, OEM size) gasket actually fit inside it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible.
But when I finally got smart and pulled out the dremel tool with the cutting wheel, that did the trick. Forget using a hack-saw if you decide to do something like this. What I did was cut the case just above the seam that is located by the base-plate (I'm calling the base-plate the end that screws onto the engine - it's the heaviest plate of the automobile oil filters).
Unfortunately I cannot test the paper elements themselves to determine their actual filtering measurements and this is a very important key-measure. Also, I am not an oil filter expert, I've just been maintaining my own cars probably like most of you and have been doing it since I started driving at 14, today I'm 50.
I've owned a lot of cars, probably 20 or so including pick-ups. I've found Toyotas to be most excellent automobiles, really durable and well made (but you know that already) and I've owned 4 of them with 3 of those being Corollas. I think Corolla is the highest value vehicle made today, just my opinion, its a great around town car that has the capability of making fairly pleasant interstate trips and it doesn't beat you up to bad in the process. I've bought bouncer for this report that I thought were good quality and that an average guy might use. Over the years, I've bought about every oil filter brand out there. I've never really known what was inside oil filters either, or much about how they worked. I know a whole lot more today than I did, so its been worth the effort. I can see there is a lot of science, both design, material and production, in oil filters. Certainly more than I ever thought there was.
